Unexpected Journey to Kalinga

Not THAT Mainstream Eh?

I know there are lots of blogs out there with more details and went as planned. But this one, is different. Its more like an unplanned trip where everything is unexpected. Yep this one is one of those travel journals where we got tattooed by Apo Whang-Od, the last Mambabatok of Buscalan.

A Scenic View near the road close to Chico River on the way to Bugnay

It started as a solo trip until some friends wanted to tag along. I told them not to tell everyone so that the whole Baranggay will not tag along which means more liabilities, hard to find transportation to accommodate all 10000 passengers and I want this to be a chill trip. Only 3 of us booked a flight to Manila (from Cebu) on the 27th of December 2014.

Manila

We arrived in Manila on time and thinking we have more time to lose. But when we got to the Victory Liner station in Camias, all the busses going to and from Tabuk were fully booked for the month of December. D’oh we forgot that it was passenger season. We don't just give up and have to think for another plan to get there. I was thinking that If we get to Baguio City, we are safe. Then had an idea if we go to Dagupan, Pangasinan, we can get a ride to Baguio City. Lucky, Sheena texted a friend (Andrew) in La Union and told us to get a Partas bus to Bauang La Union and from there, there are lots of trips going to Baguio City. And yeah we got ripped off by a taxi driver going to the terminal (no change for a 100 peso bill ehh?).

The Church in Bauang, La Union (Taken 1:00 AM)

Bus Ride, a Van, and More Bus Rides

We arrived at Partas Terminal at around 1pm and waited for the tickets until 7:00 PM. We finished almost 3 movies and a boring talk show. Got on the bus at around 8:00 PM and left for Bauang, La Union. I forgot how much was the fare but I think it was around P470.00+ for the air-conditioned bus.

After several stops and bathroom breaks, we finally reached Bauang, La Union at 1:00 in the morning. Since there were no buses in the area, Sheena’s friend took us to the bus terminal in San Fernando and rode a freelance taxicab going to Baguio City. The fare was P80.00 and in around 90 minutes, we were in the cold Baguio City and… its 3:00 in the morning. 

The bus to Bontoc leaves at 4:00 AM for I think 200+ pesos (I forgot.. I was half asleep). But first, a quick breakfast. We had a quick stop at Atok, Benguet and enjoyed the “views” while the bus driver had his fill. Then, slept until we arrived in Bontoc which was 6 hours bus ride from Baguio City. We stayed at Bontoc to rest, we decided we leave for Tinglayan the next day. Now to explore!

Quick Stop At Atok Benguet. Mr Driver needs to eat or do stuff

Fun things we did in Bontoc:

• Stayed at a cool hostel called Samoki Valley Inn (no air-condition but cool) for P300.00 / head.
• Bontoc Museum - Gate was closed even though the door inside says open. So, no museum
• Bontoc Hot Spring - Nope we didn't go there.
• Junny’s Sagada Lunch - They ran out of etag. They offered dog-tag... Nope, I am not eating Blackie, Brownie or Christopher. So next restaurant please. The Pines Kitchenette was quite good actually.
• Got a cool beanie for 85 pesos.
• Did not wade in the Chico River. Ain’t got time for that.
• Sleep the whole afternoon and drink beer in the evening.
• Just walk around until bored.
• Explore the multi-purpose building and why it is called multi-purpose. What was the real purpose of the multi-purpose building? I don't know… You tell me!

A nice view of Bontoc. Taken from the terrace of Samoki Valley Inn

The Great Chico River

Pigs and Cows! You have been warned! (the slayer)

Igorot Portrait

The Open But Closed Bontoc Museum

That Jeepney Ride to Bugnay

We have to wake up at around 4:00 in the morning to catch any bus or jeepney going to Tinglayan or Tabuk, Kalinga. We had a quick breakfast of “Pan de Sal" bought from a boy vendor. Now to finish the peanut butter!

While waiting for the jeepney, and nearly finished all the coffee (and our coins) from the coffee dispenser nearby, the jeepney finally came at around 6:00 am and the driver said that it will leave at around 7:00 am ++ for Tinglayan, Kalinga. He will drop as at the junction in Bugnay so that we can catch a motorbike ride to Buscalan.

Once its ok for us to get on the vehicle, we immediately got a place on the roof for viewing purposes. lol… The trip to Bugnay with the free scenic view costs around P80.00.

On the Top of the World...
Photo by: Sheena

On top of a Jeepney with a view and a very cold breeze

While we were on the roof of the vehicle, foreign tourists (Joy & Luke) also joined us. They are also going to see Apo Whang-Od and get a  tattoo from her.

I had a quick conversation with an old local fellow that there are some “Good Stuff” scattered around Kalinga. We just need to find it.

Bridge on the way to Tinglayan

Bugnay

We noticed lots and lots of wild (but domesticated) pigs just hanging around the road. Some were big, some were small, some were fat and some were lazy and lots of them. lol… Then the driver told us that we are in Bugnay junction. The gateway to Buscalan.

We got into motorbikes for hire (habal-habal). 1 for the girls and 1 for myself. Joy & Luke also got one. The fare was around P100.00 per head. Although I was the only passenger, I still get to pay P100.00 which was OK.

It took us around 30 minutes to get to the other junction in which you have to hike for 40-60 minutes. Don’t worry, you wont get lost since there is a slippery concrete path to get to the village where Apo Whang-Od is.

Pigs & Piglets off Bugnay

Buscalan

Some guy told us that we are the 20th people going to visit Apo Whang-od and will have to wait for them to be done. He even told us that we can get the tattoo the next day. But when we arrived at Apo Whang-Od’s place, nobody was there and we are the first ones to get a tattoo on that day. We finally met her. She was eating that time and was smiling. She did not look 90+ at all. 

"Tattoo Artist Whang-Od"
Apo Whang-Ods Place... We stayed here for the Night...

They let us stay at Apo Whang-Od’s crib in which they welcomed us with Kalinga Coffee which tastes really good and Pinikpikan for lunch. 

In her house, there were lots of photos of her with all other people that got a tattoo from her even Lars Krutak the tattoo hunter.

Lars Krutak & Apo Whang Od Pictures on her Room

Ahh the Kalinga Coffee... Best Ever

Mambabatok in Action

There were new comers and they are not going to stay for long so we let them go first. They are just two guys anyways. Then we met with Luke and Joy who came after us.

We paid some dude with a logbook. Wrote our names and phone numbers there because incase we come back there in the future, we don’t have to pay another P50.00.

Hershey! Whang-od's pet Golden Retriever

They gave us catalogs with ancient Filipino tattoo designs. But what I want is her original designs, not from any other Tribes from the Philippines. Some of the designs shown were from a Manobo or the Baybayin which Apo Whang-Od did not do during the time when headhunting was in existence.

I found a design which kind of suits me. The Hawk or Ginawang which is some kind of protection (Spiritual Messenger) to the warriors while they are on a headhunting mission.

Finally, Whang-Od took her tattoo instruments. A bamboo shaft with a small hole enough  for the citrus thorn to be inserted. Then, she took a small bowl of what appears to be an ink (made from a soot from a pot).

I finally decided to place the tattoo on my upper chest instead of my right leg. She took a small stick and drew the design on my right chest with the ink made from pot soot. Although she has a cold and coughing that time, she is still willing to proceed. Then, she hammered the needle with another stick into my skin. I thought it would hurt but it didn’t. It actually felt good really good. I think better than those electric tattoo needles. In around 20 minutes, I was already done! She then took a small bottle of coconut oil and put some on the finished tattoo.

King of the Wooden Throne... lol

I Guess this is the one for me?

Then she proceed with the guys next to me. Regina followed by Sheena then, Joy. Luke did not get one though. Sheena & Regina got the Manobo diamond design on their arms while Joy got the same design as mine but in one of her butt cheeks. lol…

Whang-Od and her Tattoo instrument on Regina's Arms

Sheena's design.. with free palm reading!

Chill in Buscalan

After the fun talks with the locals we decided to grab a few drinks and hang out in a hut and watch the day turn into night playing cards and stuff.

The Guys (Sheena, I, Reg, Joy, Luke).. Chillin..
Photo by: Sheena

Yep that is the trail from Buscalan to the Junction. Less thank 40 minutes hike!

There were new comers but there will be getting the tattoo the next day as Whang-Od was already tired and need her rest.

Slept early because we need to wake up and leave very early. Paid the owner of the house our rent (P200.00 each) and bought some Kalinga Coffee (P100.00) for souvenir.

Sleep Like a... wait what?

Woke up up the next day and began our very cold and dark 2-hour hike towards Bugnay to wait for any vehicles bound for Bontoc as we are out of time.

Waited for hours for any buses or jeepney bound for Bontoc but none came. Some guy said that the earliest bus is 8:00am which is a long wait. We took an expensive motorcycle for hire instead to save precious time. We got to enjoy the cold air and better views anyways. We arrived at Bontoc in 1.5 hours just in time for the bus to leave for Baguio City. And another 6 hours of butt breaking journey and P400.00 pesos poorer for that.

Baguio Again.. Colder this time

We arrived at Baguio City an hour behind schedule but when we got to the Victory Liner terminal, the place was packed with people trying to get back to Manila for the New Year and most of them were chance passengers. Now, our chance to get back to Cebu was very slim. I also have to get a fast craft ride from Cebu to Leyte to spend my New Year at home with my family.

Baguio City Sunset View... Yep we were thinking we were stranded...

Now, time was running out and we killed more time by staying at SM Baguio eating Pizza and playing Tong-its. Then we decided to do backtrack again and hope for the best (Plan W). Another sleepless night again towards home. We went to another terminal and all is packed with people. If those guys will give me 1 peso each, i would be a millionaire!

We got lucky there was this guy mentioned that there is a Van-for-Hire going to San Fernando, La Union and we took that chance. Yep, we luckily got the ride to San Fernando. That was 7:00 PM and arrived at San Fernando, La Union at around 9:00 PM (P100.00). Got on a bus (P470.00) for Cubao, QC for another 5-hour trip. And by the way, we already missed our flight back to Cebu, Our flight was at 10:00 PM and we are still in La Union! Lol…

We were supposed to arrive earlier but there was this damn traffic in Monumento  Circle which killed 2 hours. What the Hell? Its Manila, what do u expect? lol…

Yep,.. They STAB you with a number at the guard house! (PARTAS La Union)

NCR, Cebu, Leyte, Oh man

Arrived at Partas Terminal and took another Bus bound for Pasay City. Took a cab to the airport hoping there are still flights bound Cebu City. And yes! we bought tickets to Cebu home for a killer price but we get to go back to Cebu on time. The time was 5:00 and our flight back is 7:00 AM so more time to take a quick shower (on the sink) and change those clothes that I was wearing for the past 3 days.

And we were off… Arrived safely in Mactan International Airport at 9:00 AM, December 31, 2014. But I have to catch a fast ferry to Ormoc at 11:00 AM. I know… More queue and waiting.. Got a quick breakfast and went straight to Pier 1. The boat left on time and arrived on time (2 hours trip). I have to take another 1.5 hour Van-for-Hire ride to get to my hometown.

Arrived safely at 4:00 just enough time for a New Year Celebration! Although very tired, I still enjoy the unexpected experience!

Something to Learn (or not) about this Trip:

• DO NOT go on a trip on a passenger season!
• Book your BUS tickets early!
• It’s OK to lose some cash as long as its worth the experience. This one is worth it.
• Learn a few card games it kills boredom.
• Bring a good book (I brought Bicycle Diaries by David Byrne).
• If all else fail, check GOOGLE! Lucky for the mobile internet.
• Make new friends on the way.
• Igorot Siopao Vendors ;)
• When giving candies to the children in Buscalan, be prepared for the crazy mob! lol we learned the hard way…
• Sleep? What Sleep?… 
• PACK LIGHT! Leave those useless stuff at home! Bring few, lose few…
• Explore.. It’s ok to get lost.
• Bring a small led light and a power bank! the are useful!
• Take lots of Pictures.
• And by the way, NO! We DO NOT support SM Baguio cutting those precious trees!

Bonus Pics & Video:

Pigs Sleep together.. fight the cold together...

Buffallo Skulls Outside Bontoc Museum